Of Tea & Tales in Taiwan

Taiwan has mystic mountains, sandy shores, whispering woods, cascading waterfalls, rushing rivers, hydrothermally active volcanoes and tantalising trails. It has colourful temples, popular night markets, cute cafes, trendy bars gourmand-recommended eateries and glitzy KTVs and clubs. But beyond its natural and manmade beauty, what makes it a cut above its neighbouring hotspots in East and Southeast Asia are reasons less obvious.

Taiwan, home to nearly 23 million people, is roughly the size of Kerala. Yet, its seamless transport network of high-speed rail, conventional rail, metro (MRT) systems and major expressways makes travelling across the island easy. You can get from the capital city Taipei in the north to port city Kaohsiung in the south, in 4-5 hours by car or just 90 minutes by high-speed train — only slightly slower than Japan’s bullet train.

Most flights land at Taoyuan International Airport, which primarily serves Taipei (TPE), and is the 13th busiest in the world by international passengers. It was ranked the world’s best airport for baggage delivery and the world’s friendliest airport.

Flight connections from Australia: Taiwan boasts two full-service airlines — China Airlines and Eva Airways. These two dominate flights from Taipei to Australia — specifically Brisbane because of its large Taiwanese community, Melbourne and Sydney.

Flight connections from India: Travellers can reach TPE from major Indian cities like Delhi, Mumbai and Bengaluru via connecting flights through Hong Kong, Bangkok or Singapore. Common carriers include Cathay Pacific, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways and Vietjet

You can never get bored of shopping in Taiwan, be it traditional markets, upmarket shopping malls or iconic night markets. Taipei’s Dihua Street, one of the oldest marketplaces in the country, sells everything ethnic, while the counties and villages have their own farmers’ or traditional markets. 

In Taiwan, prices are fixed and tourists don’t need to bargain. As for luxury products, almost every modern neighbourhood in the biggest cities has shopping malls with almost every big global brand. In Taipei’s Xinyi district and around the country’s most imposing landmark, Taipei 101 — once the tallest building in the world — is the highest concentration of popular global brands. However, Taiwan’s night markets are a traveller’s delight, where local delicacies can be devoured at ridiculously cheap prices.

One of Taiwan’s most picture-postcard spots is a teahouse in Jiufen, a hilly hamlet near Taipei, whose lantern-lit village houses resemble those in Hayao Miyazaki’s Oscar-winning Studio Ghibli production, Spirited Away.

Tea is deeply embedded into Taiwanese culture — from high mountain oolong in Central Taiwan to Assam varietals introduced from India a century ago. Traditional tea houses are unmissable in the older quarters of Taipei, Taichung and Tainan. And modern Taiwan gave the world bubble tea. This milk tea blend with chewy tapioca balls is found everywhere. After dark, free-flowing tipple in cosy speakeasies, pubs or KTV lounges pull in the crowds, both touristy and local.

Some of the most architecturally beautiful landmarks are the Taoist and Buddhist temples spread across the island. For a different kind of restoration, one can visit the Japanese-era natural hot springs or onsens. Some are tucked away in the mountains within the capital city’s periphery, where a number of hiking trails are also available.

EasyCard and iPass make movement seamless across Taiwan. Travellers from Australia can withdraw New Taiwan Dollar (NTD) from most Taiwanese bank ATMs. While credit cards are accepted in big stores, smaller shops still prefer cash. But everyone, from a small-time street vendor to a cab driver, keeps change.

Ultimately, for every minor hiccup a traveller may face in Taiwan, the most reliable solution is its people. Urbane, courteous, polite, humble and helpful, they have this quiet resilience even in the face of frequent natural events, from earthquakes to typhoons. It is this steady resolve as much as the infrastructure that underpins the island’s sense of order and calm.

Known historically as Formosa, the Beautiful Island, Taiwan today offers a destination where travel feels not just beautiful but intelligently designed.