Paradise Found in Kashmir

The houseboats in Srinagar deserve every bit of their romance. But once you’ve drifted through life on Dal Lake, let its waters carry you to the shore. Beyond lies a landscape of more adventure, best discovered by road.

It takes around three hours from Srinagar to reach Yousmarg, located on the southern skirts of the Pir Panjal Inner Himalayan range.

After checking into one of the JKTDC government-run cottages, one can spend a leisurely afternoon picnicking or simply walking about. Yousmarg is a giant green bowl — an endless meadow dotted with wildflowers — with paths that lead to the frothy Doodhganga River. The mirror-still Nilnag Lake is nearby too. On the way back to Srinagar, stop at Chahar-e-Sharif, one of the oldest Sufi shrines in Kashmir.

Best time to visit: Late April to September. Many tourists replace Pahalgam with Yousmarg during the crowded Amarnath Yatra pilgrimage months of July and August.

The seven-hour drive up to Gurez may be long, but both the view and the quiet are worth it. The valley sits north of Srinagar, near the Line of Control, the military-marked frontier separating parts of India and Pakistan-occupied J&K.

Until 2025, foreigners weren’t allowed into Gurez; its doors are now open by securing an advance permit. The homes in Gurez are made of logs, and in summer, the sound of bubbling brooks and the call of birds is all one might hear. Coniferous trees dot the green slopes. Spend the weekend camping on a hill, walking through meadows of yellow and white wildflowers, and pause to pluck delicious wild red berries — called kulmach in Kashmiri.

Best time to visit: May to October. For the remaining months, the valley is cut off from the rest of Kashmir by heavy snow

If Gurez is off the map, Gulmarg is as touristy as it gets. Literally meaning “Meadow of Flowers”, history tells us that Mughal emperor Jahangir spent several summers here collecting 21 varieties of flowers, which he then planted in his royal gardens.

In winter, the green slopes give way to postcard-like snowy landscapes, perfect for skiing and snowboarding. Everyone who visits talks about the famous gondola, one of the highest and longest cable car rides in Asia. That it’s only a two-hour drive from Srinagar makes it even better.

Best time to visit: March to May for springtime, and December to February for winter sports. If extreme cold is not your thing, avoid Chillai Kalan, the 40-day phase considered the harshest part of winter in Kashmir, beginning around December 21. Don’t forget that cup of kahwa — ideally made with saffron of the highest quality from Pampore.

More than a year after the terror attack, tourism here is struggling. Add Pahalgam to your list not only for its truly wondrous scenery but also to support local livelihoods. QR codes have been issued to local horse owners and shopkeepers to help ensure tourist safety.

As the Amarnath Yatra begins on July 3 and continues well into August, Pahalgam remains the gateway to the pilgrimage site. After soaking in the serene rivers, lush meadows and pine forests, hire a vehicle from the main Pahalgam taxi stand to explore the town’s A-B-C tourist spots: Aru, Betaab and Chandanwari. Baisaran Valley remains closed at this time (June 2026). Kanhamar, a few kilometres from Pahalgam, is where local guides might take you sightseeing instead.

Best time to visit: Summer months for serene rivers and lush valleys; December onwards for a magical winter wonderland.